Green notes in perfumery:
Although fairly used in perfumery (especially during the era of "Belle" Parfumerie), Green notes are not part of the 6 original families (Floral, Citrus, Woody, Oriental, Fougère, Chyprée) according to the SFP ( French Society of Perfumers).
The green note is very characteristic in perfumery: either we like it or we hate it.
Some will say that it brings a vegetal, natural facet to a perfume, others that the "leaves of..." effect is too pungent on the nose, too green.
The effects of these notes are interesting enough to energize a head of a perfume, making it look crisp, wet, green. The smell of freshly cut grass, the morning dew, from the neighborhood florist. In short, all green.
These are usually top/heart notes. Here are some raw materials. Natural notes are followed by an *:
- Grassy green:
Cis 3 hexenol: solar.carnation.fruity
- Fruity green:
Mastic Absolute: terpenic.woody.balmy
Styallyl acetate: rhubarb.metallic.hazelnut
Allyl Amyl Glycolate: pineapple.fat.plastic
Blackcurrant bud Absolu*: sulphurous.resinous.cat pee
- Watery green:
Leaves of Violet Absolute*: cucumber.seaweed.leather
Methyl carbonate octine: watery.violet.mushroom
- Green :
Galbanum Essence*: pepper.carrot.turpentine
Absolute Narcissus*: floral.hay.honey
Some emblematic perfumes:
"Night Flight" - Guerlain 1933 - Jacques Guerlain / Woody Green
"Green Wind" - Balmain 1947 - Germaine Cellier / Green Floral
"Miss Dior Original" - Dior 1947 - Jean Carles & Paul Vacher / Floral Chypre
"No. 19" - Chanel 1970 - Henri Robert / Floral Green
"Alloy" - Estée Lauder 1972 - Francis Camal & Bernard Chant / Green Floral Chypre
"Pleasures" - Estée Lauder 1995 - Alberto Morillas & Annie Buzantian / Green Floral
"Untitled" - Margiela 2010 - Daniela Andrier / Floral Woody Green
"Beautiful breathe" - Chanel 2016 - Jacques Polge / Floral Green
This list is not exhaustive because there are a lot of beautiful launches: some emblematic, some more commercial.