Green notes

Green notes in perfumery:

Although fairly used in perfumery (especially during the era of "Belle" Parfumerie), Green notes are not part of the 6 original families (Floral, Citrus, Woody, Oriental, Fougère, Chyprée) according to the SFP ( French Society of Perfumers).

The green note is very characteristic in perfumery: either we like it or we hate it.

Some will say that it brings a vegetal, natural facet to a perfume, others that the "leaves of..." effect is too pungent on the nose, too green.

The effects of these notes are interesting enough to energize a head of a perfume, making it look crisp, wet, green. The smell of freshly cut grass, the morning dew, from the neighborhood florist. In short, all green.

These are usually top/heart notes. Here are some raw materials. Natural notes are followed by an *:

  • Grassy green:

Cis 3 hexenol: solar.carnation.fruity

Triplel: solar.carnation.fruity

Stemone: fig.mint.aniseed

  • Fruity green:

Mastic Absolute: terpenic.woody.balmy

Styallyl acetate: rhubarb.metallic.hazelnut

Allyl Amyl Glycolate: pineapple.fat.plastic

Blackcurrant bud Absolu*: sulphurous.resinous.cat pee

Oxane: green.sulfur.blackcurrant

Undecavertol: violet.fruity.floral

Glycolierral: grapefruit.floral.pepper

  • Watery green:

Leaves of Violet Absolute*: cucumber.seaweed.leather

Methyl carbonate octine: watery.violet.mushroom

Folione: fruity.plastic.violet

Nonadienal: cucumber.mimosa.aldehyde

Nonadienol: cucumber.purple.fat

  • Green :

Galbanum Essence*: pepper.carrot.turpentine

Absolute Narcissus*: floral.hay.honey

Stemone: fig.mint.aniseed

Some emblematic perfumes:

"Night Flight" - Guerlain 1933 - Jacques Guerlain / Woody Green

"Green Wind" - Balmain 1947 - Germaine Cellier / Green Floral

"Miss Dior Original" - Dior 1947 - Jean Carles & Paul Vacher / Floral Chypre

"No. 19" - Chanel 1970 - Henri Robert / Floral Green

"Alloy" - Estée Lauder 1972 - Francis Camal & Bernard Chant / Green Floral Chypre

"Pleasures" - Estée Lauder 1995 - Alberto Morillas & Annie Buzantian / Green Floral

"Untitled" - Margiela 2010 - Daniela Andrier / Floral Woody Green

"Beautiful breathe" - Chanel 2016 - Jacques Polge / Floral Green

This list is not exhaustive because there are a lot of beautiful launches: some emblematic, some more commercial.

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