Fruity notes in perfumery
Coralie Frébourg
Peach, pear, cherry, raspberry, fig… Fruity notes make you want to bite into a perfume. But did you know that almost no fruit can be extracted naturally? If you come across a “banana absolute”, it's a lie. Here's why.
What is a fruity note?
Fruity notes evoke the flesh of fruit: juicy, sweet, tangy, sometimes candied or boozy. Widely used, they are nonetheless not one of the six original olfactory families defined by the French Society of Perfumers (SFP): floral, citrus, woody, oriental, fougère and chypre.
Fruits recreated through synthesis
Almost no fruit can be extracted naturally. The only exceptions: citrus fruits (by pressing the zest) and blackcurrant bud. All the others must be reconstructed through synthesis.
It's one of the best proofs that synthesis belongs in perfumery: without it, no peach, no pear, no red berries. More in No more fragwashing.
There are also natural materials with a fruity smell… that aren't fruits: osmanthus (a flower that smells of apricot) or davana (a plant with liqueur notes).
How are fruity notes used?
Very present in household and hygiene products, fruits are used sparingly in perfumery to avoid a tutti-frutti effect. They are great for boosting certain notes, personalizing them and giving them original facets.
They are usually top and heart notes.
Key raw materials
Natural materials are marked with an asterisk.
- Osmanthus absolute*: apricot, tea, leather
- Wine lees essence*: winey, whiskey, vinegar
- Davana essence*: tea, liqueur, cinnamon
- Aldehyde C14: peach, soft, milky
- Aldehyde C16: strawberry, oily, winey
- Aldehyde C18: coconut, solar, soft
- Alpha damascone: rosy, apple, fresh
- Beta damascone: rosy, plum, quince
- Frambinone: raspberry, rosy, powdery
- Melonal: melon, watery fruit, green
- Verdox: apple, conifer, earthy
- Manzanate: apple, bright, fresh
Note: despite their name, aldehydes C14, C16 and C18 are not aldehydes.
Iconic perfumes
- Mitsouko, Guerlain (1919), Jacques Guerlain: fruity chypre (peach)
- Trésor, Lancôme (1990), Sophia Grojsman: floral (peach)
- Angel, Mugler (1992), Olivier Cresp: vanilla oriental (red fruits)
- Premier Figuier, L'Artisan Parfumeur (1994), Olivia Giacobetti: woody (fig)
- Philosykos, Diptyque (1996), Olivia Giacobetti: woody (fig)
- La Petite Robe Noire, Guerlain (2012), Thierry Wasser: vanilla oriental (cherry)
- Kenzo World Intense, Kenzo (2017): fruity floral
This list is not exhaustive: there are many beautiful launches, some iconic, others more commercial.
Where to find fruit at Versatile?
We like our fruit gourmand and a little offbeat. The juicy pear and calvados of Bonne Poire. The chocolate-Baileys cherry of Cerise sur le Gâteau. The apricot of Culot Thé. The blueberry of It's a Match-a. The iced fig of Sea, Sud & Sun. And the mango of Very Bad Rice. To try them all, our Les Fruits Discovery Box.
FAQ
Why are fruity perfumes synthetic?
Because fruit flesh contains too much water and sugar: its scent can't be extracted. Only citrus fruits and blackcurrant bud are exceptions.
Are fruity notes only for women?
No! They're found more often in so-called feminine perfumes, but that's marketing. All our perfumes are genderless.
What is osmanthus?
A small Asian flower that smells of apricot, tea and leather. Proof that a fruity note can be… a flower.
