Fruity notes
Coralie Frébourg
Fruits in perfumery:
Although fruit notes are often used in perfumes, they are not part of the 6 original families (Floral, Hesperidia, Woody, Oriental, Fern, Chypre) according to the SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs).
Almost all the fruits cannot be extracted naturally, except for citrus and blackcurrant buds, which have to be reconstituted synthetically.
If you come across an Absolu Banane, it's a lie.
Fruit is widely used in home-care and body-care products. In perfumery, fruity notes should be used sparingly to avoid tutti frutti. They are very interesting for boosting certain notes, personalising them and giving them new, original facets (thanks to synthesis).
Most fruity notes are found in feminine rather than masculine fragrances. There are natural raw materials in fruity notes that are not fruit (logical).
These are usually top/heart notes. Here are some raw materials. Natural notes are followed by an *:
Absolute Osmanthus*: apricot.tea.leather
Wine lees Essence*: vomit.whishy.vinegar
Davana Essence*: cinnamic.liquor.tea
Aldehyde C14: peach.sweet.milk
Aldehyde C16: strawberry.fat.winy
Aldehyde C18: coco.solaire.doux
Jasmolactone: coco.celery.floral
Damascone alpha: rosé.apple.fresh
Damascone beta: rosé.pin.coing
Frambinone: raspberry.rosé.powder
Melonal: fruit of water.fat.green
Verdox: apple.coniferous.earthy
Manzanate: apple.bright.fresh
Ketone V: pineapple.violet.woody
Some emblematic perfumes:
"Mitsouko" - Guerlain 1919 - Jacques Guerlain / Fruity Chypre (Peach)
"Treasure" - Lancôme 1990 - Sophia Grosjman / Oriental Floral (Peach)
"Angel" - Mugler 1992 - Olivier Cresp / Oriental Vanilla (Passion Fruit)
"First fig tree" - The artisan perfumer 1994 - Olivia Giacobetti / Woody Aromatic (Fig)
"Philosykos" - Diptych 1996 - Olivia Giacobetti / Woody Aromatic (Fig)
"Forbidden games" - Kilian 2012 - Calice Becker / Fruity Floral (Plum, Peach)
"The little black dress" - Guerlain 2012 - Thierry Wasser / Oriental Vanilla (Cherry)
"Kenzo world intense" - Kenzo 2017 - Francis Kurkdjian & Maïa Lernout / Fruity floral (Plum)
"Dolce Peony" - D&G 2019 - Christophe Raynaud / Fruity Floral (Pear & Peony)
"Candy Love" - Escada 2020 - Amandine Clerc-Marie & Nicolas Beaulieu / Fruity Floral (Apple)
This list is not exhaustive because there are a lot of beautiful launches: some emblematic, some more commercial.
