Coniferous notes (Terpenes)
Coralie Frébourg
Coniferous notes in perfumery:
Although fairly used in perfumery, Coniferous - Terpenic notes are not part of the 6 original families (Floral, Citrus, Woody, Oriental, Fougere, Cyprus) according to the SFP (French Society of Perfumers).
Notes often associated with woody notes for their facets of forest, pine, resinous, aromatic, sometimes smoky mosses and above all, very woody.
Very fresh and invigorating, they boost woody base notes and bring naturalness and spiciness. Popular in niche perfumery.
These are usually top/heart notes. Here are some raw materials, the natural notes are followed by a * :
Siberian pine Species*: resinous.eucalyptus.fresh
Turpentine Essence*: cedar.waxy.pepper
Cypress Essence*: turpentine.spicy.green
Fir Balsam Absolu*: balsamic.woody.wood-fired
Isobornyl acetate: eucalyptus.montant.cassis
Alpha pinene: turpentine.pepper.dusty
Terpineol: chlorinated.zesty.floral
Borneol: camphor.ginger.chlorinated
Some flavors:
"Water three" - Diptych 1975 - Serge Kalouguine / Woody Spicy
"Cèdre Olympe" - Armani 2009 - Guillaume Flavigny / Woody Aromatic
"Girl in needles" - Serge Lutens 2009 - Christopher Sheldrake / Oriental Boisé
"Blue sandalwood" - Comme des Garçons 2013 / Woody Spicy
"Bottega Veneta for men" - Bottega Veneta 2013 - Daniela Andrier & Antoine Maisondieu / Leather
"Juniper" - DS & Durga - David Seth Moltz / Woody Aromatic
This list is not exhaustive because there are a lot of beautiful launches: some emblematic, some more commercial.
