Aromatic notes in perfumery
Coralie Frébourg
Lavender, rosemary, thyme, sage, basil, mint: herbs have always accompanied humankind, to heal, to cook and to perfume. In perfumery, they bring freshness, tone and character. Here's how.
What is an aromatic note?
Aromatic notes evoke herbs and aromatic plants: fresh, invigorating, purifying, sometimes relaxing. They are widely used in Eaux Fraîches and Eaux de Toilette.
Widely used, they are nonetheless not one of the six original olfactory families defined by the French Society of Perfumers (SFP): floral, citrus, woody, oriental, fougère and chypre. They are, however, at the heart of the fougère accord.
A bit of history
Herbs have existed since the dawn of time, valued both for their medicinal virtues and for the freshness they bring. In the 17th century, the Hungary Water, based on rosemary, was one of the first alcohol-based perfumes. Later, Colognes and fougères made them their signature.
Long confined to so-called “masculine” perfumes, aromatic notes now pop up everywhere, even in gourmands.
What do aromatic notes smell like?
It depends on the herb: lavender-like, minty, camphoraceous, anise-like or herbal. Most are top notes: they give the first burst of freshness.
Key raw materials
Natural materials are marked with an asterisk.
Lavender-like
- Lavender essence*: floral, hay, herbal
- Lavandin grosso essence*: straw, lavender-like, camphoraceous
Minty
- Peppermint essence*: fresh, chlorophyll, diffusive
- Buchu essence*: mint, blackcurrant, thyme
- L-carvone: mint, chlorophyll, woody
Camphoraceous
- Sage essence*: lavender-like, peppery, tea
- Eucalyptus essence*: fresh, camphoraceous, coniferous
- Mugwort essence*: coniferous, liqueur, minty
- Myrtle essence*: coniferous, fruity, citrus
Anise-like
- Tarragon essence*: aromatic, green, anise-like
- Fennel essence*: anise-like, spicy, fresh
- Basil essence*: anise-like, diffusive, minty
- Dill essence*: anise-like, coniferous, fresh
Herbal
- Bay leaf essence*: honey, spicy, coniferous
- Rosemary essence*: fresh, peppery, camphoraceous
- Thyme essence*: tar, peppery, fresh
Iconic perfumes
- Eau Sauvage, Dior (1966), Edmond Roudnitska: aromatic citrus
- Polo, Ralph Lauren (1978), Carlos Benaim: aromatic woody chypre
- Kouros, Yves Saint Laurent (1981), Pierre Bourdon: aromatic fougère
- 1881, Cerruti (1990), Martin Gras: aromatic fougère
- Le Mâle, Jean Paul Gaultier (1995), Francis Kurkdjian: ambery fougère
- Herba Fresca, Guerlain (1999), Jean-Paul Guerlain and Mathilde Laurent: green aromatic
- H24, Hermès (2021), Christine Nagel: green aromatic
This list is not exhaustive: there are many beautiful launches, some iconic, others more commercial.
Where to find herbs at Versatile?
We prefer our herbs on the plate. The basil, pesto and lemon of Rital Date, our Italian date. The sage and offbeat aromatics of La Foncedalle. The fizzy basil of Dimanche Flemme. The dill of Accrodisiaque. And, for your skin, the thyme and fennel of L'Huile Vinaigrette.
FAQ
Aromatic or fougère: what's the difference?
Fougère is a family built on the lavender-coumarin accord. Aromatic notes are a facet: you'll find them in fougères, but also in citrus, woody or even gourmand perfumes.
Are aromatic notes masculine?
That's an old marketing reflex. A perfume has no gender, and basil suits everyone.
Why are herbs top notes?
Because their molecules are light and volatile: you smell them immediately, then they give way to the heart and base of the perfume.
